“We have climbed the mountain
there’s nothing more to do
It’s terrible to come down to the valley
when, amidst many flowers
one thinks of snow.”


Spantik Peak face is climbed via two different routes. Alexander Klenov and Mikhail Davy climbed the first section of the pillar along the English route and then continued via a new line which required 11 bivouacs overall. The international team spent five days following Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler’s English route between 5th and 11th August 1987.

The teams climbed two fantastic routes on one of the hardest and most famous rock faces in the Karakoram. Their styles of ascent varied greatly, but both succeeded in climbing two great mixed routes at high altitudes. The Peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramoshi massif near Barpu Garumbar glaciers. Some foreign maps name it as Yengutz peak in addition to Spantik peak. Other maps call it Genish Chish (peak). Spantik reaches a height of 7027 meters. In 1892 a large expedition of W.M. Conway went to the area to explore the glaciers situated around the peak. The expedition thereafter crossed Nushik pass, which the team measured at 5273 meters and descended onto Kero Lungma glacier and Arandu.

In 1959 a British-Pakistan Army expedition under the leadership of Captain H.R.A. Streather headed to Chogolungma and Kero Lungma glaciers to explore them for a possible climb on the smaller peaks in the area. The peak was however climbed from south ridge by a Japanese Club Expedition called Hoshi-to-Arashi (Stars and Storms) led by Nakamura. The Reiho Alpine Club expedition of Japan also climbed it in the same year from southeast ridge. It was led by Y. Murata. Both expeditions mention avalanche danger in the area and both approached the peak from Chogolungma Glacier. Some Japanese publications indicate that Spantik peak was climbed in 1955 by Germans.

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1

Islamabad

Transfer to hotel
2

Islamabad

Briefing at Ministry of Tourism
3

Chilas

Drive to Chilas. 12 hrs Drive. Transfer to hotel for overnight
4

Skardu

Drive to Skardu. 8-10 hrs drive. Overnight at hotel
5

Skardu

Day Free for preparation and acclimatization. Overnight at hotel
6

Arandu

Drive to Arandu. Overnight in tents
7

Spantik Base Camp

Trek via Chogo Lungma Glacier to Spantik Base Camp. Overnight in tents.
8-24

Climbing

Reserved for Climbing Spantik Peak
25-27

Arandu

Trek back to Arandu from Spantik Base Camp. Meals & Overnight in tents
28

Skardu

Drive to Skardu. Overnight in hotel
29

Skardu

Day Free at leisure. Overnight in hotel
30

Chilas

Drive to Chilas. Overnight at hotel
31

Islamabad

Drive to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel
32

Islamabad

Debriefing at Ministry of Tourism. Overnight at hotel
33

Departure

Transfer to airport.

Please Note:

The above itinerary is not a fixed programme but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Please note that because of the nature of mountaineering on 8,000m peaks, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations as they present themselves. Any changes to the itinerary will be made with a view to maximising the benefit to the team members and of ensuring their eventual success on the mountain.

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