Spantik Peak – Expedition (14 July 2020-16 Aug 2020)

• Fixed Departures

“We have climbed the mountain
there’s nothing more to do.
It’s terrible to come down to the valley
when, amidst many flowers,
one thinks of snow.”

Spantik Peak has 2 different climbing routes. Alexander Klenov and Mikhail Davy climbed the first section of the pillar along the English route and then continued via a new line which required 11 bivouacs overall. The international team spent five days following Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler’s English route between 5th and 11th August 1987.

The teams climbed two fantastic routes on one of the hardest and most famous rock faces in the Karakoram. Their styles of ascent varied greatly, but both succeeded in climbing two great mixed routes at high altitudes. The Peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramoshi massif near Barpu Garumbar glaciers. Some foreign maps name it as Yengutz peak in addition to Spantik peak. Other maps call it Genish Chish (peak). Spantik reaches a height of 7027 meters. In 1892 a large expedition of W.M. Conway went to the area to explore the glaciers situated around the peak. The expedition thereafter crossed Nushik pass, which the team measured at 5273 meters and descended onto Kero Lungma glacier and Arandu.

In 1959 a British-Pakistan Army expedition under the leadership of Captain H.R.A. Streather headed to Chogolungma and Kero Lungma glaciers to explore them for a possible climb on the smaller peaks in the area. The peak was however climbed from south ridge by a Japanese Club Expedition called Hoshi-to-Arashi (Stars and Storms) led by Nakamura. The Reiho Alpine Club expedition of Japan also climbed it in the same year from southeast ridge. It was led by Y. Murata. Both expeditions mention avalanche danger in the area and both approached the peak from Chogolungma Glacier. Some Japanese publications indicate that Spantik peak was climbed in 1955 by Germans.

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