Spantik Peak face is climbed via two different routes. Alexander
Klenov and Mikhail Davy climbed the first section of the pillar
along the English route and then continued via a new line
which required 11 bivouacs overall. The international team
spent five days following Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler's
English route between 5th and 11th August 1987.
teams climbed two fantastic routes on one of the hardest and
most famous rock faces in the Karakoram. Their styles of ascent
varied greatly, but both succeeded in climbing two great mixed
routes at high altitudes. The Peak is located in the Rakaposhi
and Haramoshi massif near Barpu Garumbar glaciers. Some foreign
maps name it as Yengutz peak in addition to Spantik peak.
Other maps call it Genish Chish (peak). Spantik reaches a
height of 7027 meters. In 1892 a large expedition of W.M.
Conway went to the area to explore the glaciers situated around
the peak. The expedition thereafter crossed Nushik pass, which
the team measured at 5273 meters and descended onto Kero Lungma
glacier and Arandu.
1959 a British-Pakistan Army expedition under the leadership
of Captain H.R.A. Streather headed to Chogolungma and Kero
Lungma glaciers to explore them for a possible climb on the
smaller peaks in the area. The peak was however climbed from
south ridge by a Japanese Club Expedition called Hoshi-to-Arashi
(Stars and Storms) led by Nakamura. The Reiho Alpine Club
expedition of Japan also climbed it in the same year from
southeast ridge. It was led by Y. Murata. Both expeditions
mention avalanche danger in the area and both approached the
peak from Chogolungma Glacier. Some Japanese publications
indicate that Spantik peak was climbed in 1955 by Germans.