Expeditions - K-2

"Sitting down by base camp
looking at the stars
I would often think and wonder
If I could ever go that far
When Cynthia rose to check my gloom
It’s majesty I saw within the moonlit bloom
I thought of the moment if it would ever arrive
If upon K-2’s summit I could ever thrive”
Kashif Yousaf

K2 is located on the border of Pakistan and China. Being the second highest mountain in the world, it is thought by many climbers to be the ultimate climbing challenge. The giant Pyramid Peak towers in isolation 12,000 feet above the wide Concordia glacial field at the head of the Baltoro Glacier. The sheer icy summit is flanked by six equally steep ridges. Each of its faces presents a maze of precipices and overhangs. K2 was long considered to be impossible to climb. Attempts in 1902, 1909, 1934, 1938, 1939 and 1953 had all but failed.

The first successful ascent in 1954 started with over 500 porters, 11 climbers, and six scientists. One of the climbers died of pneumonia after 40 days of raging storms. The final ascent was made by a team of two after their oxygen supply had run out, and an emergency descent was made in darkness.

K2 is the only major mountain in the world which has surveyor's notation as its common name (K stands for Karakoram, 2 means it was the second peak listed). T.G. Montgomery was the surveyor who assigned K-2 this designation in 1856. The mountain's remoteness had rendered it invisible from any inhabited place, so apart from an occasional local reference as Chogori (meaning Great Mountain), it had no other name prior to Montgomery's survey. Since that time, the name Mount Godwin-Austen has occasionally been used in honor of the man who directed the survey. For the most part, K2 has been the name of choice and has even evolved into Ketu, the name used by the Balti people who act as porters in the region.

With respect to the commentary on the Italian expedition which was the first to summit K2 8611m in 1954, it has since been proven that Compagnoni and Lacedelli did indeed have oxygen until they reached the summit of K2. The myth was dispelled through libel proceedings brought on by climber Walter Bonatti, who had been accused of sabotaging the expedition by keeping the oxygen for himself. The best evidence available in a properly translated format can be found in the latest edition of “The Mountains of My Life” by Bonatti, or the short book entitled “Trial on K2”.


   

ITINERARY:
       
Day 01     Arrive Islamabad, transfer to hotel.
Day 02     Islamabad- briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 03     Drive to Chilas, transfer to hotel for overnight.
Day 04     Drive to Skardu, overnight at hotel.
Day 05     Skardu- preparations.
Day 06     Drive to Thongal/Askole, overnight camp
Day 07     Trek to Korofong, overnight camp
Day 08     Trek to Chobraqk, overnight camp
Day 09     Trek to Paiju, overnight camp
Day 10     Trek to Urdukas, overnight camp
Day 11     Trek to Goro, overnight camp
Day 12     Trek to Concordia, overnight camp
Day 13     Trek to base camp
Day 14-49     RESERVED FOR CLIMBING
Day 50     Trek back to Concordia. Overnight camp
Day 51     Trek to Ali Camp. Overnight camp
Day 52     Trek to Low Camp via the Gondogoro Pass
Day 53     Trek to Dalsanga Pa. Overnight camp
Day 54     Trek to Hushe. Overnight camping
Day 55     Drive to Skardu. Overnight at hotel
Day 56     Skardu- relax at Skardu
Day 57     Drive to Chilas. Overnight at hotel
Day 58     Drive to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel
Day 59     Islamabad – debriefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 60     Fly to onward destination


PLEASE NOTE: The above itinerary is not a fixed programme but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Please note that because of the nature of mountaineering on 8,000m peaks, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations as they present themselves. Any changes to the itinerary will be made with a view to maximising the benefit to the team members and of ensuring their eventual success on the mountain.

More Information...
 
Expedition Album


Copyrights (C) Nanga Parbat, 2005. All rights reserved.
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